Lille Hotels
Although Lille has been part of France for 350 years, its lovely medieval centre is still redolent of the classic wool towns of Flanders. The grand architecture and cobbled streets of Vieux Lille stretch between the Canal de la Deule, the northern border of the inner city, and an enjoyably confusing complex of main squares comprising the town centre.
Grand' Place (otherwise known as place du Général de Gaulle, named after Lille's local hero), place Rihour and place du Théâtre - the city's focal squares - are interlinked. The city buses incongruously trundle over the cobbles here, temporarily stopping the constant flow of shoppers feeding in from the bright, commercial tributaries of rue Nationale, rue Esquermoise, rue de Béthune and rue Faidherbe. On and around these squares are Lille's main sights: the neo-Gothic cathedral Notre-Dame-de-la-Treille (rue de la Monnaie); pretty Gothic St-Maurice church (rue de Paris); and, most attractive of all, the Hospice Comtesse. Set on rue de la Monnaie, this former hospital, founded in the 12th century and rebuilt in the 18th, houses a museum of Flemish art, furniture and ceramics (No.32, 03 28 36 84 00, closed Tue), a lovely garden, chapel and concert venue.
The Flemish influence doesn't end there. The best Belgian beers are standard in most bars; mussels, oysters and rich sauces are the main feature of an attractive local cuisine; and interesting shops purveying obscure collectables - a typical Belgian trait - dot a varied horizon of shopfronts. Said beers - perhaps a Kriek or Trappist variety - are poured into their own logoed glass and served with a 'S'il vous plaît' from the waiter, just as in Belgium.
The infrastructure, though, is proudly French: a modern, two-line metro system interlinked with a swish tramway and city buses, connecting with the brash Euralille Eurostar/TGV station. The latter is swathed in natural light and contains one of the biggest shopping malls in all of France, with 140 shops spread out over two very modern levels - ideal for shopping before boarding the Eurostar.
French icons also provide the most interesting attractions outside the centre. For example, the house where General de Gaulle grew up, just in from the canal at 9 rue Princesse, is a museum (currently under renovation) in his name, located in a distinctly Flemish neighbourhood. French military architect Vauban was responsible for the star-shaped Citadelle (accessible by guided tour only - ask at the tourist office) across the canal.
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Works by Monet and Renoir are among the collection at the Musée des Beaux-Arts (place de la République, 03 20 06 78 00, closed Tue), south of the city centre, while the Musée d'Art Moderne (1 allee du Musée, 03 20 19 68 68, closed Tue), with its Picassos, Braques and Derains, is the main attraction of the suburb of Villeneuve d'Ascq, a 15-minute metro ride to the east.
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